Adjusting Valve Lash
Adjusting valves on a pushrod engine
BY: Lars Grimsrud
How to Adjust Your Chevy Valve Lash
by Lars Grimsrud
SVE Automotive Restoration
Musclecar, Collector & Exotic Auto Repair & Restoration
Rev. A 2-7-01
This tech paper will discuss the adjustment of Chevrolet
hydraulic lifters ("valve lash").
The procedure outlined here differs slightly from the Service
Manual, and is based on my years of experience doing this work
in the quickest, least painful, most economical way while
keeping the level of quality high. It is recognized that other
people will have different methods of doing things, and may
disagree with specific methods and procedures that I use.
Overview, Theory and my Thoughts on Lash Settings
Hydraulic lifters are wonderful little innovations which reduce
valve train wear and virtually eliminate required valve train
Without the use of hydraulic lifters (mechanical lifters), the
valve train must be adjusted with a certain amount of "slop" in
it ("lash"). This lash is necessary, since the various
components in the valve train tend to "grow" and expand as they
heat up from normal engine operation. As the components "grow,"
they take up a large portion of the lash, but some lash must
still be retained as a safety margin. If there were no lash,
there would be a risk of the valves not closing fully, resulting
in poor engine performance and burnt valves. This lash,
however, results in a bit of valve train noise as parts "clank"
together, and this clanking induces wear of the valvetrain
components. This wear, in turn, requires that the lash be re-
adjusted at regular intervals. If only there were a way to
eliminate the lash…. hmmmmm….
Enter the hydraulic lifter. Believe it or not, but the internal
components of a hydraulic lifter are the most precise, close-
tolerance parts on a vehicle. The basic operation and principle
of the hydraulic lifter is as follows:
When the hydraulic lifter is at the "low" point in its bore (the
valve is closed), the body of the lifter is exposed to
pressurized oil in the lifter oil galley. The lifter body has a
little hole in it, and this hole allows oil to enter and/or exit
the lifter body. The pressurized oil in the galley thus enters
the body of the lifter, and pushes lightly on a plunger in the
roof of the lifter body. This plunger is about a half inch in
diameter, giving it a total area of approximately 0.12 square
inches. If you're running 60 pounds of oil pressure, that means
that the oil is pushing upwards on the plunger with a force of
about 11 pounds max. This 11 pound force is not enough to open
the valve, but it will remove all slack out of the valve train.
As soon as the lifter starts moving upwards in its bore (the cam
is opening the valve), the oil hole in the lifter body moves out
of alignment with the oil galley. The lifter body is sealed
off, and oil can't get in or out of the body. The lifter, thus,
goes into "hydraulic lock," and suddenly acts like a solid
lifter. The oil under the plunger is not compressible, so the
lifter now opens the valve.
As the lifter comes down the bore after completing its valve
opening chore, it is once again exposed to the oil pressure in
the lifter galley, and the pressurized oil once again assures
that all lash is taken out of the valvetrain before repeating
the opening cycle. As the valvetrain wears, the oil pressure
simply constantly pushes the plunger upwards to remove any slack
caused by the wear. The plunger can be pushed upwards in the
lifter bore within the design limitations of the lifter, and
will eventually be stopped by a snap ring retainer in the top of
the lifter body. Once the plunger reaches the retainer, it can
no longer provide effective valve train adjustment, and the
valvetrain will start making noise.
The distance the plunger is compressed into the lifter body when
the lifter is at the low point in its bore is referred to
as "lifter preload." This is the "valve lash" or "valve
adjustment" on a hydraulic lifter. The further the plunger is
depressed, the more wear the lifter can "absorb" before reaching
the snap ring retainer. However, the more the plunger is
depressed, the more prone the engine becomes to "lifter float"
or "valve float."
As we noted earlier, the oil in the lifter is not compressible.
If, somehow, the lifter body were filled with just a few drops
of oil too many, and the lifter were moving so fast in its bore
that the oil did not have a chance to bleed out and re-stabilize
the valvetrain lash at the bottom of the lifter travel, the
lifter would keep the valve open when the valve should be
closed. Further, if aggravated, this condition could cause the
lifter to open the valve beyond its design limitations, out of
time with the intended valve cycle. This is what is known
as "lifter float" or "valve float." It can have disastrous
consequences if the valve were to hit the piston. We,
therefore, adjust hydraulic lifters with some pre-load, but not
too much. So what's the right spec…?
Obviously, we can eliminate valve float completely by simply
adjusting our lifter pre-load such that the plunger is right at
the top of the lifter body; right up against the snap ring
retainer. The problem with this approach is that there is the
possibility of the same hydraulic lock conditions exerting so
much force on the snap ring that the snap ring is forced out.
With nothing retaining the plunger, we would have the same
disastrous ending to our engine… Also, with no plunger travel
available, the non-maintenance feature of our hydraulic
valvetrain is defeated, and we must now constantly adjust the
valves as if they were mechanical.
The factory setting on a Chevy lifter pre-load is ¾ to 1 turn
lifter preload with the lifter on the low side of the cam (valve
closed). This eliminates valvetrain maintenance for at least
100,000 miles, and is a good compromise setting. However, it
can allow the valves to float at rpms as low as 5700. This,
effectively, becomes a factory-installed rev limiter: if they
can make the valves float lightly around 6000 rpm, GM can reduce
warranty claims from customers over-revving their engines. Hey…
these boys and girls designing this stuff in Detroit aren't
dummies, are they?
So for a performance application, we split the difference. A ½
turn lifter pre-load will raise the rpm limit of the engine, yet
it will still provide quite a bit of plunger travel so the
lifter can do its valvetrain wear adjustment thing.. It will
also keep the plunger away from the snap ring retainer, and it
will keep our operation safe. Safe, reliable, improved
performance and good durability/life: what more could you ask
This procedure typically takes me about 30 minutes from start to
finish on a Chevy without air conditioning, but I've done it a
few times. Allow yourself an hour or two for a leisurely pace
of wrenching and beer drinking.
Keep your work area clean and organized. It'll make the job seem
much easier. I like to lay a clean towel out on the ground by
the car or on an adjacent workbench. As each bolt, screw, nut
and component is removed, I lay the parts out carefully on the
towel. Whenever possible, I put screws back into the holes that
they came out of after the component is removed. Wipe up spills
and sweep the area as you progress to keep things clean and
pleasant. You will be leaning across the fenders on pre-C4
cars, so use a fender apron.
Park the car on a level surface. Set the parking brake and
block the tires. On manual cars, put the trans in neutral.
Pull the coil wire that goes from the distributor cap to the
ignition coil (on HEI cars, disconnect the connector out of the
distributor) and ground it.
· Turn the engine over until you can see
the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Using a piece of
chalk or other visible marker, place three more timing marks on
the balancer: one mark every 90 degrees around the balancer
(one exactly opposite the factory mark, and two in between these
marks: just get it pretty darned eye-ball close, it doesn't have
to be exact.)
· Remove the valve covers. You may have
to remove some accessory brackets in order to do this.
· Rotate the engine over (either
by "bumping" the starter or by inserting a socket and breaker
bar onto the harmonic balancer bolt) until the factory timing
mark lines up with "0." Observe the pushrod for the exhaust
valve on the #1 cylinder: if the pushrod moves as you come up
on Top Dead Center, you're on the exhaust stroke, and you need
to rotate the crank one more time. If neither pushrod moves as
you come up on the timing mark, you're on the compression stroke
and ready to go.
· Loosen the adjustment nuts on both the
rocker arms for cylinder #1 using a deep socket and a ½" drive
ratchet. One at a time, adjust them as follows:
· Place the pushrod between you thumb and
forefinger of your left hand (or right hand if you're left
handed…). Rotate, or "twirl," the pushrod back and forth
between your fingers and notice how lightly and easily it spins.
As you do this, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut. The instant
you feel the "twirl" friction change between your fingers, you
are at "0" lash. STOP. Now, notice the position of your
ratchet handle. Tighten the nut exactly ½ turn from your
current position. Do the same to the other rocker arm for #1
(when doing this, make sure that the friction you feel as you
swirl the pushrod is not caused by your ratchet and socket
pushing or binding on the rocker arm - keep things straight and
aligned, and watch for false indications caused by your tools).
That's it for #1.
· Now, here's the trick:
What's the firing order for a GM V8?
How often does a cylinder fire in a V8?
Every 90 degrees
That means we can now rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees at a
time, and go right to the next cylinder in the firing order for
the valve adjustment, with confidence that both of the valves
for that cylinder will be closed and ready to adjust.. So rotate
to your next chalk line, and adjust #8 as described above.
Rotate to the next line and adjust #4. After you've rotated the
crankshaft twice over (using the starter and "bumping" is the
easiest way), you've finished your valve adjustment! No oily
mess, no worrying about if you missed a valve. Just a nice,
simple, structured procedure!
· Pop your valve covers back on with a
fresh set of gaskets, re-install any accessory brackets you've
removed, and start it up with confidence. You now have a
correctly adjusted valvetrain that will operate quietly and with
outstanding performance and reliability.
Questions, Comments & Technical Assistance
If you have questions or comments regarding this article, or if
you notice any errors that need to be corrected (which is quite
possible since I’m writing this from memory), please feel free
to drop me an e-mail.
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